The big box was divided into 3 compartments, with braces, but the dividers only came up about half way do that big items could be put in on top of the dividers. Since I shoot Black Powder Cartridge, even using Clean Shot, I need cleaning solutions and materials in the cart, and I need a container of liquid I can drop brass into (upper right).

This device both holds the lid open and keeps it at the right angle so it doesn't interfere with the open levers (one added to left side in March 2002 because one caused uneven action and warpage.) (both Marlin 94 Cowboy and Cimarron '73 Saddle Ring Carbine are shown. Note brass handles, useful for manhandling box in and out of SUV.

Brass Corner braces are used where possible.

A different kind of brass corner brace on the ammo box.

Recommendations: The hinged door for the gun rack is a good idea, better than the stock piece. The lid brace is a good idea. The interior dividers are a good idea. The leather padding is a good idea. The brass fittings and corner braces are a good idea. Trying to make Pine look like anything but Pine is a BAD idea. Just stain it, maybe a stain you don't see much, so you can tell yours from others. Priming and painting and clear coating is a BAD idea. Bad. Bad. On the other hand, it doesn't look like anyone else's guncart, and it has big wheels, so I might be able to get it up the hill at Tin Star Ranch. On the other hand, I saw these miniature horses on TV and this neat buckboard gun cart....

ADDED OCTOBER 2001

There was one thing missing, no, there were a lot of things missing, a motor, someone to pull and steer, a device that would enable me to shoot 10 pistol targets, 10" in diameter at 15 yds, in 2.0 seconds and hit them, etc. But the lack of the cup holder I could cure. This is a flip open model designed for pre-1996 Mercedes-Benz E-Class vehicles (aftermarket, not available at every Mercedes-Benz dealer).

APRIL 2002 NOTES

Several months of living with the cart have displayed its (few) weaknesses. Disassembling and reassembling it is the biggest pain in the neck. I realized that I was ticked off having to use a screwdriver to disassemble and reassemble. After much searching I found some knobs with 1/4" x 20 threads and attached them to 2-1/2" brass screws with the heads taken off using blue Loctite. With these and blind mounting nuts I can unscrew the 4 holding the vertical supports to the base in a few seconds. The front two screw in from the outside. The rear two screw in from the inside. You don't want the knobs rubbing against the outside guns.

Additionally the flimsy fiberglas axle began to give trouble, and I replaced it with a piece of 1/2" threaded rod, with nuts and washers used everywhere appropriate, and blue Loctite on everything but the end nuts. To facilitate removing them I drilled the threaded rod and inserted the clips used on the standard axles.

I take the top and verticals off as one piece and put the bottom in the truck with the wheels and legs still attached. Less disassembly/reassembly. I'm still not thrilled with the legs, but if I don't take them out and put them back in, the likelihood of the studs coming out is lessened. I see a lot of these with reinforced legs. I eventually gave up and put in corner braces. The legs are no longer removable without a screwdriver.

Carry only about 110% of the ammunition you need in order to keep the weight down, especially at uphill facilities. I'm bad about having enough ammunition to hold off the entire Sioux nation at Little Big Horn. Not necessary. Below is storage with the wheels and legs removed, giving more room for long trips, but requiring more disassembly/reassembly time.

I experimentally replaced the 16" wheels with similar 20" wheels from Northen Freight for easier rolling over rough terrain. Not visible are small casters put on the front legs to raise them 2" and facilitate moving around the shop. I've also experimented with the stock wheels mounted higher and just casters on the bottom of the cart, no legs. I reverted to the stock wheels in stock location when the big ones proved no easier to move over rough terrain.

The Simple Cart is now available in kit form in both pine and Oak. Oak is heavier but looks better. Remember that weight factor before you buy an oak one. I haven't seen any in oak, but there are a lot of them in pine, generally quite stock and unstained. If you build one, at least make it look a little different so you can find it. I have little trouble finding this one, and several people have found me using it.

September 2004

The folks at Cal-Graf Design have reminded me that they have made several of the changes recommended here and want me to mention it here.

"The legs have been reduced to one, and that one is attached to the front with a 3/8 x 16, 2" stud. The bar that goes across the barrels is actually cut that way, not broken, and many people have surely replaced them with those of their own design. Yours sure looks substantial. The lid problem was addressed with a lid support that has for the past year come standard on all carts so that your hands don't get smacked as you access the lower box while the actions remain open. And, you're exactly right about the handle's original design and thus, the upgrade for the old, and new design standard for the new."

Cherrlynn at Cal-Graf Design

It's a good cart and has benefited from some years of development.

Back to Captain Baylor's Ranger Camp