Arizona Billy Tilghman and friend, my late good friend Arizona Chris Masden and Maggie Hall at Winter Range
I started with the costume above, but you don't need to go that far at first.
Starting Out:
Put on something vaguely cowboy like and show up. Hopefully you have some cowboy boots of some sort and some blue jeans which don't have a designer label, a long sleeved shirt, and a cowboy hat. There is no costume police (except on the SASS WIRE). You will not be shown the door or harassed. If you like the sport, make an effort to come up with a complete cowboy costume. But there's a name shooter locally who dresses just like he does the rest of the time. Fortunately his normal dress is boots, blue jeans, and a long sleeved shirt. Even the strictest club gives beginners 6 months to get cowboy, and what they accept is pretty inclusive.
I have seen a shooter with no western clothing start with a $10 hat, a $10 clearance band collar shirt from Cavenders, $5 Thrift Shop bluejeans with $5 worth of bachelor buttons for suspenders and a pocket knife for removing the belt loops, and $49.95 roper boots. Others have done it for less. Some have spent several hundred dollars. You pay your money, and you take your choice. This CAN be a semi-expensive sport. It doesn’t have to be. (Having raced cars I know what an expensive sport is. Compared to auto racing, Yacht racing, polo, or supermodels, it’s pretty cheap.)
At some local matches and at all big matches are vendors selling more authentic 19th century wear. Pants should have button fly and use suspenders if you're buying something new for the sport.
If you want to go beyond that to chaps, spurs, vest, or even military uniform, etc., knock yourself out. It's fun, not a requirement.
This is after several years of competition and studying what people really wore in the 19th century. From head to toe: Boss of the Plains hat (Golden Gate Western Wear), lace up shirt (matching an old photograph) (River Junction Trade Company), black tie, full length watch chain (antique), 1873 pattern Levi’s trousers (Hamilton Dry Goods), Civil War Cavalry boots (C & C Sutlery), Civil War enlisted man’s spurs. spur straps (Blockade Runner)
From the SASS Shooter’s Handbook (January 2005):
CLOTHING and ACCOUTERMENTS
Cowboy Action Shooting™ is a combination of historical re-enactment and Saturday morning at the matinee. Participants may choose the style of costume they wish to wear, but all clothing must be typical of the late 19th century, a B- western movie, or Western television series.
SASS members have adopted the personas of bankers, blacksmiths, lawmen, gunslingers, railroad engineers, saloon girls, schoolmarms, East Indian British cavalry, U.S. Army cavalry, mountain men, trail cowboys, prairie women, American Indians, and silver screen heroes ... you name it!
Once you have adopted your character, do a little research. Go to the library and look at historical
photographs depicting your character. Determine the clothing items you need, and begin your search. There are many commercial suppliers of traditional western clothing and accouterments who advertise in The Cowboy Chronicle.
The other way to go is on your own. Visit your neighborhood thrift stores. Look for lightweight wool slacks with plaid or vertical stripe patterns or old formals, for example. Men, remove the belt loops from the slacks, add suspender buttons, and presto, you have a pair of Old West trousers. Ladies, take the old satin, silk, or whatever formal, add a little lace, change a hem line, add a feather boa, and a hair comb ... voila, you're a saloon girl.
Another possibility exists with the commercial costume rental companies. Many of these firms offer a good selection of authentic western wardrobes.
Don't want to get that involved in developing your costume? Well, okay. Denims of the Wrangler, Levi, and Lee variety
are acceptable. Designer jeans (the ones with the colored piping and name embroidered on the pocket) are not allowed. Contemporary cowboy shirts with snap fronts are okay, but not even very B-western. Inexpensive cotton work shirts with button fronts are available at Sears, Wal-Mart, K-Mart, and J. C. Penney stores. These are much more representative of the type of shirt worn in the late 1800's. If you know a good seamstress or tailor, many patterns for Old West clothing are available. Any large fabric shop will carry cotton goods adaptable to great western wardrobes.
Visit with the other shooters at your local club. They have great ideas about how to assemble a Cowboy Action Shooting™ wardrobe.
The Tucson 9 (+2), authentically dressed reenactors of 19th century baseball. They were at Winter Range and dressed like this for the opening ceremonies. They also shot dressed like this. Boy, were there complaints about that on the SASS Wire. (The ball caps). The intention of the rule next door is not to bar such costumes as these.
• Modern shooting gloves
• Short sleeve shirts
• Modern feathered cowboy hats (Shady Bradys). Straw hats of traditional design (e.g., Stetson, Bailey, sombreros,) are acceptable.
• Designer jeans
• Ball caps
• All types of athletic shoes or combat boots no matter the material from which they are made.
Major Ned Prentiss (24th Regiment of Foot) and Sheriff Sam Ashe, Queen Victoria's representatives at Gunsmoke, Texas
Major Ned Prentiss dresses authentically despite the weather. When the rest of us are in minimal 100° weather costumes, he's in full costume.
Big Springs Kid demonstrates real ingenuity and originality in this escaped prisoner’s costume.
Moon can be counted on for an interesting costume. This hot day he dressed in full Indian garb. Amazingly, none of the cowboys shot him, despite the warpaint. (Use about a quart of sunblock if you dress like this.)
Major Lee Wild is dressed as a gambler. Only gamblers wore fancy vests much past 1865. The coat is a morning coat, and it’s appropriate with striped pants. The details are there, the watch chain, the tie, appropriate boots.
Authentic but painful boots with OK pattern spurs
Do note that in one of the exhibits a the Cowboy Hall of Fame in Oklahoma City are a pair of 19th century boots which look just like Ropers. So if your feet are only comfortable in Ropers, or if you can't afford new $200 boots for a sport, wear your Ropers. No problem. If your feet are damaged, wear what you can. The other shooters will understand. If you're competitive for first overall in a major match, you should wear something appropriate for the character, not Tennie Lamas or boots with basketball treads.
Civil War, or Surplus Cavalry boots are almost comfortable
These are Civil War issue boots (from C & C Sutlery), with correct Civil War spurs and spur straps. They aren't as fancy as the cowboy boots, but you can walk in them due to a 1" walking heel (leather heel replaced with rubber for safety on wood floors). They are deliberately unpolished. They show scars from the spurs. These spurs are much more practical than the big ones. The big ones will trip you when running, and you have to take them off to drive, etc. These, you don't. Since they were Civil War issue, no one can say they're not accurate. Copies of them were made for a long time. The 1876 pattern US cavalry boot is only slightly different. Similar boots could be expected to be available to civilians at the sutlers at Army posts. So they're correct with any Ranger costume and many cowboy costumes.
I see a lot of guys, usually big guys, with lace-up boots. Their feet are shot, and that's what they can wear. No one ever says anything about it. If you can't wear cowboy boots, do what you can. Remember, NO COSTUME POLICE. If there are any costume police, refer them to this picture.
Don’t show up like this when the dress rules are intact. This was a summer day in Texas, the club, Tejas Pistoleros permitted shorts and T-shirts as long as you had a cowboy hat and boots. Capt. Samuel Clayton wore Tennie Lamas with his costume.
If this gentleman isn’t shooting in Classic Cowboy, he’s certainly dressed for it (Do note the holster exceeds legal angle. We’ll get to that further on.)
CLASSIC COWBOY/COWGIRL
Costuming: Must choose at least five of the requirements listed below. All clothing items must be worn appropriately during all shooting events and awards ceremonies. Chaps, spurs, cuffs, tie or scarf worn loosely around the neck or with scarf slide, vest, pocket watch with full-length chain, jacket, sleeve garters, knife, botas, leggings, braces; no straw hats allowed.
In addition to the above items, ladies may choose from the items listed below in order to compete within this category: Period watch, split riding skirt, bustle, hoops, corset, Victorian style hat (straw allowed), period jewelry, period hair
ornaments (e.g. feathers), snood, reticule (period handbag), period lace up shoes, camisole, bloomers, fishnet stockings, feather boa, cape.
• No Buscadero or drop loop holster rigs allowed.
• All boots must be of traditional design with leather or smooth rubber non-grip enhancing
soles.
• Hats must be worn for the entire match.
Though Captain Baylor doesn’t shoot Classic Cowboy, that didn’t keep him from entering the Classic Cowboy Costume Contest at the 2005 SASS Convention. Dressed as John King Fisher, a Texas outlaw who had a pair of tigerskin chaps and dressed flamboyantly with a brown beaver hat “suitable for a bandit king or a cattle king,” silk wild rag, fancy shirt and vest and hand tooled leather (and some fancy pistols not allowed at the contest). The costume won first place.
When this category was proposed, I dubbed it the "Big Bore/Uberti/Costume Vendors Benefit Category." I've asked the obvious questions: What's a full length watch chain? At least 11 feet, just kidding. Answer given: Not a watch fob. But you can stuff the whole chain in your vest or shirt or pants pocket. Can a woman compete wearing only the snood, hat, and jewelry? Depends on the club. Some are rather puritanical, but it sounds good to me. Can you take the hat off when you sleep at night? No, when they say the entire match, they mean it. Shower in your hat if you must, but don't take it off. (Just kidding, I think. They've rephrased that for 2006)
Huricane with one R winning the “Silver Screen” category at the 2004 Convention. This pretty much defines the B-Western costume, a copy of one worn by Dale Evans
These are the guidelines from the TG Summit at the SASS Convention in December 2005. It may be subject to minor modifications in the final version.
Handguns: All SASS legal handguns are allowed.
Rifles: Any SASS legal rifle of 1884 or later design or a replica thereof (i.e. 1892, 1894, Lightning Rifle, or Marlin)
Shotguns: All SASS legal shotguns
Ammunition: All SASS legal ammunition is allowed
Leather:
Buscadero holster rigs or drop loop rigs. (All of the pistols must be carried below the top of the gun belt.)
All belt and holster rigs must be embellished (fancy stitching, conchos, spots or tooling).
All holsters must be of the “Straight Hang” type. No cross draw or shoulder rigs.
Shooting style: Any shooting style at any time.
Clothing:
Shirts must be of the “B” Western style with snap buttons or any of the following,
“Smiley Pockets”, embroidery, appliqués, fringe or different colored yokes.
Shield Shirts are also allowed if it has piping or embroidery.
Pants must be jeans, ranch pants, or pants with flap over the rear pocket, keystone belt loops and/or piping or fringe.
Pants must be worn with a belt.
Suspenders are not allowed.
Felt hats only, no straw hats.
Hats must be worn.
All boots must be of traditional design with fancy stitching or multi-color fancy design with smooth, non-grip enhancing soles.
Lace-up boots and moccasins are not allowed.
Western Spurs with rowels are required for men.
Ladies may wear skirts or split riding skirts.
You must choose at least one or more of the following optional items:
Gloves or gauntlets, scarves with slides or tied around the neck, coat, vest, chaps, cuffs.
Knifemaker as Roy Rogers. These two would be hard to beat. Competitors will be pleased to know they've retired and now judge Classic Cowboy and Cowgirl and B-Western costumes at costume contests like the 2005 SASS Convention
All costumes are expected to be fancy and flashy.
The “B” Western costuming must be worn during the entire match and awards ceremony with exception of evening formal occasions.
Costumes that depict leading role characters in “B” western movies are allowed as long as the costume is complete with all accessories.
Costumes include characters as Hopalong Cassidy, Red Ryder, and Roy Rogers. Any costume that looks Classic Cowboy or military i.e. John Wayne characters and Italian Western characters are not acceptable.
All costumes must adhere to the leather, gun, ammunition, boot, spur, and hat requirements, listed above.
This is a real 1880's red bib shirt with ocean pearl buttons from "Cowboys & the Trappings of the Old West" by William Manns and Elizabeth Clair Flood, a great reference if you're trying for an authentic look.
This one is on display at the Cowboy Hall of Fame in Oklahoma City: This verifies the authenticity of the style and of shirts with collars in general. Not all shirts had collars. The bib was designed to keep wind from blowing through this shirt when out on the plains.
Bib shirts are authentic, colorful, and available in several different styles. They can be worn with or without a vest to handle the weather. And John Wayne wore several in various movies, and one of the rules of SASS is "THE DUKE CAN DO NO WRONG!"
Joe Ming, Helena, Montana 1888 wearing a 6-button bib shirt.
Here's River Junction Trade Co.'s version of the Sears 6-button bib shirt.
Here's Capt. Baylor wearing it in 1874
The Band Collar Shirt:
This band collar shirt is on display at the Cowboy Hall of Fame in Oklahoma City.
Contrary to what you would believe after seeing this or visiting most vendors, normally work shirts had turn down collars. Dress shirts had band collars for the attachment of paper or celluloid collars. In the 1897 Sears Catalog there are pages of shirts, but only white dress shirts have band collars. Work shirts had turn down collars.
The Gus or Tom Mix Hat:
“Everybody” in SASS has at Tom Mix or Gus hat, but this sort of hat is VERY rare in 19th Century photographs. Bob Boze Bell of True West magazine told me he had one picture that looked like a Gus crease before the 1890s. The earliest I have is in the late ‘90s.
But not even Tom Mix wore a Tom Mix hat!
The most common hat in the 19th Century west was the Stetson Boss of the Plains
It didn’t stay looking new long (Golden West Western Wear)
20th Century Hats:
Cattleman by Rand Custom Hats
Quigley by Rand Custom Hats
Clearwater Hats
Clearwater Hats
Aztec Hats
Many 19th Century hats were just shapeless
Contestant at 2003 SASS Convention in Best Dressed Gentleman
Costume contests have grown from two or three categories to several. Now there are awards for best men's shooting costume, sometimes erroneously called Best Working Cowboy (thus eliminating all of the military and "townie" costumes, etc.), and at the Saturday night party or otherwise there's the Best Dressed Gentleman and Best Dressed Military, along with Couples and the ladies categories.
Sometimes the costume committee just picks winners from the audience. Sometimes you have to make a presentation. The trend is toward the presentation in front of the judges. It makes for great theater but scares off some contestants. While we were waiting in line at the 2005 SASS Convention at least one couple got stage fright and left.
If you decide to enter, remember that judges are involved, so they will make some stupid decisions. Try not to take it too seriously. If referees can't get the Super Bowl right, then judges will make mistakes at costume contests.
The other extreme of "Best Dressed Gentleman" at the 2003 SASS Convention
"Best Dressed Military" contestant at the 2003 SASS Convention
"Best Dressed Couple" contestants at 2003 End of Trail
2003 EOT Best Dressed Couple Winners